When the Weather Changes – Clean, Inspect, and Be Safe! 

The weather is changing fast! The three main things to remember is to clean, inspect, and follow these basic common-sense safety precautions. These will help ensure that your home is warm and cozy for the chilly nights coming up! These tips will help make your home safer and more energy-efficient, as well as help prevent mold and water damage during the cold weather months coming up!

Cleaning
A very easy first step to getting ready for the cold seasons is to clean all of your household humidifiers and dehumidifiers. These are easily cleaned with vinegar and water. Be sure to replace or wash the filters as well. As the air inside and outside your home gets colder and dryer, you may want to put a humidifier in. The down side of using a humidifier is the possibility of too much humidity. This may cause mold growth. To avoid this possibility, the humidity in your home should not exceed more than 45%. On the opposite end of the spectrum are dehumidifiers. As this time of the year is also hurrricane season, your basement may become cold and damp. A good way to stop or slow mold growth is to have a dehumidifier drying out those damp areas.

When was the last time you cleaned your furnace? Check with your local HVAC company for cleaning guidelines. If you don’t, you could get a buildup of dust or sediment (depending on if your basement is finished or not) and it could become a fire hazard! It’s a good idea to change the furnace filter at this time of the year also. Be sure to stock up on filters so that you can change them as necessary! When considering cleaning your heating system, don’t forget the ductwork. When was the last time your ductwork was cleaned? Think of all the dust and debris that has built up in you ductwork. Once the heat goes on, that dust and debris begins to circulate as well. If you have pets, it is recommended that you have your ducts cleaned at least one every 4-5 years.

Inspecting
Doors & Windows: While some items may require professionals, there are many things homeowners can do themselves to get ready for the winter. The first such is to inspect your property’s doors and windows. They are a homeowner’s first line of defense against the cold and elements. Check for any drafts. Caulk inside and out, where necessary, to keep heat from escaping. Inspect all weather stripping around windows and doorframes for leaks. Replace weather stripping, if necessary. Further, examine wooden window frames for signs of rot or decay. Repair or replace framing to maintain structural integrity as needed. A little maintenance now can help save on big repairs later! In older homes, with single pane windows, hang insulated curtains or seal the windows with 6 millimeter plastic. Installing storm windows on the outside gives homeowners a more permanent fix. All of these suggestions could help with savings to your cold-weather heating costs.

Heating Systems: Some inspections should be handled by professionals only. The fall is the time when it is a good idea to have your furnace inspected by a qualified HVAC company. It is always a good idea to make sure it is in good running order for the cold weather ahead. Hire an HVAC professional to test for leaks, check heating efficiency, and change the filter. They can also do a carbon monoxide check to ensure air safety.

Hot Water Heater: Hot water heaters require maintenance too. This is the time of the year when homeowners should flush hot water heater tanks to remove sediment. Check the pressure relief valve to make sure it’s in proper working order. Consider an insulated blanket for your hot water heater. Insulated hot water heaters are more energy efficient! If your hot water heater is part of your heating system, this is the time of year to bleed valves on the radiators to increase heating efficiency by releasing air that may be trapped inside from the months of non-use.

Fireplaces & Chimneys: Check your chimney and fireplace before you burn anything in it. It has been several months since it has been used, so make sure they are safe to use this season. If you are doing it yourself, you’ll need to inspect the firebox and flue system to ensure that they’re clean of any soot or creosote and that there aren’t any cracks or voids that could cause a fire hazard. Check your firplace for drafts. It it’s cold despite the damper being closed, the damper itself may be warped, worn, or rusted. Consider installing a Chimney Balloon into the flue to air seal the area tightly (for your safety, consult a professional before you undertake this option!). Clean out any ash or soot in your fireplace. If you aren’t comfortable doing this yourself, hire a professional. They will be able to inspect and clean it the right way!

Outside Faucets: A big thing that many people forget about is their outside hoses. Be sure to turn off any spigots and remove any hoses from outside your home. Interior pipes close to your outisde walls can burst and then your basement can fill with water. Some older homes even have a shut off valve in the basement that will turn off all your outside water. Depending on your climate, you irrigation system may need to be drained and checked as well. Have a professional perform any necessary repairs and mark sprinkler heads near snow removal areas.

Programmable thermostats: If you have one, program it to make your home more efficient by automatically raising and lowering the temperature as your schedule allows. You can even program it for vacations to be at a low temperature that is still high enough that none of your pipes or windows freeze while you are gone, but return to a warm home.

Ceiling Fans: Make sure fans are switched to the reverse or clockwise position, which will blow warm air down to the floor for enhanced energy efficiency and comfort. During cold spells, keep cabinet doors open to allow warm air to circulate around pipes, particularly those in the kitchen and bathroom.

Safety First!
Make sure you also test all your home safety devices! Test all your smoke detectors, fire alarms, and carbon monoxide detectors. These are a homeowner’s first line of defense against potentially life-threatening situations! Since you will be spending much more time in the house, you will need to make sure these are all in excellent working order.

Always have a fully-stocked emergency kit at hand. Include batteries, a flashlight, candles, matches, and a lighter; warm clothes and blankets; a battery-powered radio; non-perishable food items and water (two liters per adult per day); a first-aid kit and specialty products like medicine, baby formula and pet food (if necessary). Try to store at least three days worth of supplies for everyone in your household.

--Content used in this post was originally published by Major Restoration Services and is used with their permission.

A recent study concluded that 69 percent of home owners are under-insured. Unfortunately, many home owners think they are fully protected and are stunned to find out at the time of loss that their coverage is inadequate.

Getting the right homeowners insurance coverage for your home and belongings depends on many things, from crime rates, tornado risk and wildfire hazards in your area to the specific personal property coverage and deductibles that make the most sense for your household.

Here are a few key strategies you may want to consider to make sure you have adequate home insurance:

• Increase your liability insurance with an umbrella liability policy, which will provide liability coverage up to $1 million or more.
• Get replacement cost home insurance to cover what it would cost to replace your home and personal property, instead of “actual cash value” coverage, which will only cover the current depreciated value.
• Be sure to read over the policy's exclusions carefully and ask your agent if any of these items are a risk, and if you can purchase additional insurance to cover them.
• Add coverage for specific items of value, such as jewelry, art and collectibles, through “endorsements” or “riders” on the policy.

While you may be able to buy online homeowners insurance, consider working directly through an agent who can provide in-depth explanations of each aspect of your policy. When you buy home insurance, you are protecting your financial future. Take time to seek good advice from a knowledgeable independent agent.

Thinking of getting a “Lyft” from a ridesharing service? Make sure you’re covered if you get hurt as a passenger.

Ridesharing is becoming more common around the state and the nation, particularly in large cities. Capitalizing on the new “sharing economy” and to a certain extent the coolness factor, this simple concept is thriving. Passengers, however, are generally not aware of the insurance implications, and that their driver’s insurance may not properly cover them. If you’re thinking of becoming a driver for a Transportation Network Company (TNC), also read our companion flyer.

Q: What is ridesharing?

A: In the new sharing economy, ridesharing allows vehicle owners to transport passengers in their own cars for a fee or a “donation.”

Drivers sign up with a service that charges a fee to connect passengers with drivers via a website or smartphone app.

Passengers arrange rides and pay with a credit card using the app.

Q: Why is ridesharing an issue?

A: Ridesharing is not the same as riding in a taxi or limousine. Taxis are licensed by the state or a local authority and subject to strict standards, from vehicle inspection and driver licensing to insurance that protects passengers and others who could be hurt in an accident.

Transportation Network Companies (TNCs) such as Uber or Lyft are not subject to the same requirements. However, they have drawn increasing attention from state regulators and legislators concerned that the public may not be properly protected. In fact, various state regulators have issued consumer alerts to warn the public about possible risks of using a ridesharing app when riding as a passenger.

Q: How is the ridesharing company insured?

A: Insurance is the crux of the issue. Drivers are using their personal vehicles. Personal auto insurance generally excludes coverage when transporting passengers for a fee.

An increasing number of TNCs are indicating that they are going to provide some protection by covering the driver’s commercial exposure for liability and collision coverage. The nature and scope of coverage provided by the TNC varies from company to company, and its coordination with the driver’s personal auto policy can leave uninsured gaps, in some cases significant.

Q: How do I know if I’m covered as a passenger?

A: If  you are considering using a ridesharing service, you should:

If you have a personal auto policy yourself, you may be able to claim some coverage under your policy if you are hurt in an accident as a passenger. If you do not own a car, you will not have that option, unless you purchased a “named non-owner” policy. We can tell you more about this if you’d like.

Q: Why should I worry? How likely is it that a bad claim will occur?

A: There is no way of knowing what kind of accident will occur. Hopefully, none. However, many of the insurance issues that have come to light have stemmed from catastrophic claims. One in California where a six-year old girl was killed in a collision with a rideshare car.

While often downplayed by those who have an interest in the ridesharing business, coordination between the commercial and personal auto policies can pose challenges. The timing and circumstances of any accident will have a bearing on whether coverage extends to the driver and the passenger. At this time, coverage gaps still exist in a number of circumstances.

Q: Is this insurance issue settled?

A: No. A number of state legislatures have passed laws to address proper insurance coverage (amongst other things), but the issue is not fully settled. Some personal auto insurers are revisiting the issue and considering new ways to close those gaps in insurance.

    -Content used by permission of Trusted Choice www.trustedchoice.com/

Sump pumps provide peace of mind to residential and commercial property owners. Most of the time sump pumps do the job they’re intended to do, which is to prevent a basement from flooding by removing water that collects in the sump basin and extracting it through a hose to an exterior location. But when a sump pump fails, the results can be disastrous. A flood in your home or business due to a sump pump failure can be devastating. It can cause extensive permanent damage to your property and disruption to your home life and business operations if not cleaned and remediated right away. If the water damage is not completely treated and dried, you could also find yourself with a secondary problem from mold and mildew.

What is a Sump Pump?

A sump pump is a submersible pump that sits at the bottom of a sump pit, which is typically installed at the lowest point in your basement or crawl space. Ground water surrounding your home’s foundation is channeled into a perimeter drain system installed at the base of the foundation. Water finds its way into the perforated drainpipes and is quickly diverted to the sump pit. The sump pump, which is triggered by a float switch, removes the water by pumping it to the nearest storm drain, dry well or detention pond. A sump pump turns on only when water inside the sump pit reaches a pre-determined level. Most new homes are equipped with sump pumps but older homes can be retrofitted with a sump system to prevent basement flooding.

Types of Sump Pumps

There are 3 types of sump pumps. The pedestal pump, submersible pump, and ejector pump.

If your pump sits on a pedestal and stands about 30 inches tall with a hose or pipe connected to the motor and extends down into a “sump pit,” you have a pedestal pump. This is a very common style of pump. The motor on a pedestal pump is not intended to be in the water. As the water level rises, it activates a “float switch” which activates the pump. Then, the water is pumped out through a pipe or hose out and away from the building.

If your pump actually sits on the bottom of the sump pit, you have a submersible pump. This pump is much smaller than the pedestal variety, usually standing about 12 inches high. Usually, there is a 4 inch rod extending up from the pump with a float device attached. When the water reaches the float it activates the pump. The water is sucked down through the bottom of the pump. A screen at the bottom of the pump stops gravel from being sucked in.

Most commonly found in crawlspaces, ejector pumps consist of pea gravel, this type of pump is able to handle small debris being sucked into the pump without damaging the impeller or other mechanisms within the pump.

Picking a Sump Pump

Manual vs. Automatic: In nearly all circumstances, an automatic sump pump is superior. The additional cost is minimal and the peace of mind is invaluable. Manual sump pumps are typically only used for catastrophic events such as river flooding. Of course, just because a sump pump is “automatic” doesn’t mean it will always work. The water sensing mechanism can easily malfunction due to clogging and render the unit useless.

Single vs. Primary W/ Backup: Recently, many homeowners have started installing sump pumps with a secondary backup unit. These two stage units were designed to address the fairly common occurrence of a mechanical failure. Unlike other household appliances, if a sump pump fails, it will usually lead to an extremely expensive flooding event.

Electric Only vs. Battery Backup: What happens when the same storm that threatens to flood your basement also knocked out power to your home? Unless a battery backup is in place, the sump pump will fail. This is a fairly rare event of course, and many home owners elect to forego the extra protection. Base your decision on the likelihood of power outages.

Sewer vs. Storm Drain: In the past, sump pumps were just piped into the existing sewer line running out from the house. This worked well until the local water treatment plants ran out of capacity. In response, many municipalities created laws banning sump pumps from directing water into sewer lines. Why does this matter? Often, it is much more difficult to tie into a storm drain than a sewer line.

Why do Sump Pumps fail?

Sump pumps can fail for any number of reasons, including a power outage, lack of maintenance, mechanical failure, or improper installation. In some cases, a property owner may install a pump that is too small to adequately pump out the volume of water that enters the basin. While proper maintenance is key to keeping your sump pump in good working order, an extreme weather event can cause the pump to work overtime and either burn the unit out or overwhelm it with excess water.

Sump Pump Maintenance

Test your sump pump regularly to make sure it will operate when the next big downpour occurs. Test it by pouring a bucket of water into the sump pit. The pump should turn on, remove the water from the pit and shut itself off in a matter of seconds. Ensure that the float and the check valve move freely.

To clean your sump pit, remove any dirt, sand, gravel and other debris to increase the pump’s efficiency and prolong its life. Ensure that the discharge line opening is free of obstructions so that water can be pumped through the line and out of your basement or crawlspace.

Sump Pump Replacement and Repair

Like any equipment with moving parts, sump pumps will wear out over time and will need to be replaced. There is no general rule on how often a sump pump should be replaced since it depends on how often the pump operates.

When is a mold remediation professional necessary for a sump pump issue?

When a sump pump fails, mold growth often occurs as well. If this is the case, a certified mold professional is recommended. The necessity of a mold expert depends largely on the location of the sump pump. If it is located in a finished basement, and carpeting, drywall and contents are saturated, a mold professional is critical. If the sump pump is located in the crawlspace and the excess water simply pooled on the soil, an expert may not be called for.

Do you have a sump pump in your home? Consider adding Water Back-up, Sump Pump Overflow to your homeowners coverage.